‘The Bear’ season four review: intense kitchen drama returns with an improved menu

The fourth season of beloved cheffy drama The Bear arrives with something to prove. Even though season three received strong reviews, many fans sent that particular dish back to the kitchen. The red-hot tension of the compelling first two seasons had been replaced by a meandering tone and the modest helping of comedy was left off the plate entirely.

• READ MORE: ‘The Bear’ star Lionel Boyce is cooking with gas

Last time we saw Carmen ‘Carmy’ Berzatto (Jeremy Allen White), he was staring at a very important review of his recently-relaunched restaurant The Bear while the talented Chef De Cuisine Sydney (Ayo Edebiri) was weighing up whether to jump ship or not. Season four of The Bear wastes no time in answering one of these cliffhangers – The Chicago Tribune’s review is scathing, sending the restaurant into a financial tailspin. Given a literal countdown to save the establishment, The Bear’s plucky staff work to become better than ever, while Carmy questions his passion for the job.

The pulse-pounding pressure that was a trademark of the show’s early days hasn’t returned, but its absence makes space for some deeply personal journeys. Lessons have clearly been learned about pacing but showrunners Christopher Storer and Joanna Calo are committed to keeping things introspective.

We see beloved characters working through their issues with more haste than in the previous outing. Marcus (Lionel Boyce) hones his patisserie skills and struggles to reconnect with family, Richie (Ebon Moss-Bachrach) bonds with new hire Jessica (Sarah Ramos) and Sugar (Abby Elliott) grapples with motherhood.

On the surface, these may seem like disparate side-quests but as the season progresses, they come together beautifully to define the recurring theme of these new episodes: rediscovering your passion. Episode one begins with a flashback of Carmy discussing his love of restaurants with brother Michael (Jon Bernthal), as the show’s creators remind viewers where this story started.

It gives The Bear a returning sense of focus that makes small moments of humanity feel breathtaking – Ritchie making it snow for a customer, Carmy talking about the “noise” in his head with ex Claire (Molly Gordon). There’s tenderness here that can’t be bellowed over a chopping board.

Edebiri shines the brightest though. Sydney spends a lot of this season hesitating before a giant leap, her insecurity conveyed with a blockbuster mix of humour and heart. Anyone looking for proof that she is the real star of the show only need look at the fourth episode ‘Worms’. Co-written by the actor herself, it’s a delightful standalone story that takes us out of the kitchen and deep into the character’s feelings.

That’s not to say White is surplus to requirements though. There’s a vulnerability to the gruff Carmy as he witnesses the world he created possibly outgrowing him. There are also soul-searching questions about self-sabotage. A series of quiet conversations culminates in a devastating back-and-forth with his mother Donna (Jamie Lee Curtis) that’s as powerful as anything you’ll see on TV this year.

Like Carmy himself, The Bear’s fourth season returns bruised but improved. It may not be a return to its early greatness but this batch of slick, heartfelt episodes proves the show is still capable of delivering some delicious drama.

‘The Bear’ season four is available to stream in the UK on Disney+ now

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